Ohio
This is the first time I’ve been to Ohio.
(Bear, waiting at the airport, when we arrived)
Bear and I got my brother Jake a watch for his birthday. He kept talking about this particular watch. He was joking. He also jokes about driving a Maserati, but no one is going to get him one of those. We got him the watch, because we knew he didn’t expect it at all. He was so happy, he almost cried. That watch was his baby. He took it back to Cleveland, where he wore it on special occasions, like when he played a concert (he is a classical flutist). One night, he played a concert, and then had to drive to his landlord’s restaurant, to deliver a rent check. He was wearing a tux, so he took the watch off and put it in a box in the glove compartment, because he was afraid he’d be a target. He left, and when he came back fifteen minutes later, his window was smashed and the watch was gone. He was devastated.
So that is how I think of Cleveland. Oh, and also he was robbed at knife point while carrying a pizza. He said he wasn’t sure what to do with the pizza. He offered it to the robber, but the guy wasn’t interested.
But Columbus is lovely. The buildings are big and old and elegant, and the city seems to be balanced between crumbling antiquity and sleek modernity. It seems to be in the middle of recovering from a near-crippling injury. A lot of windows are boarded up. The restaurants are hip. Jeni’s Ice cream feels like it should be in Manhattan, with its endless line, cramped quarters, and flavors like “goat cheese and black cherries.” We bought a rhubarb soda, too. It didn’t taste like rhubarb, which was disappointing.
Cleveland is also lovely, Bear’s relatives who live there assure me. His family is in Canton, Columbus, and Cleveland. Many of them go to church on Sundays. They are all nice. They have also lived in places like Houston and Kansas City, but this side of the family, his father’s side, started in Canton, where his grandfather was an Irish firefighter. I feel especially Jewish sometimes, like in Florida, where his grandmother told me emphatically about the Jews she’d once worked for, who were very good people. They owned a department store.
I never mind when people tell me about Jews they’ve known. I think it’s sweet. It’s just funny, to be reminded of who you are, and how you look to other people. In Manhattan, being Jewish is so normal. Every other person I meet is also Jewish. Even the ones I didn’t think were.
Bear’s cousins have become some of my favorite people. The women are beautiful and short-haired and spunky. The family seems full of spunky, outgoing women who tease with straight faces and are always playing with you, and gentle, kind men, who are quick to apologize. Bear is definitely a gentle, kind man who is quick to apologize. Everyone tells me that his quirky, crooked smile has been there since early childhood.
It starts to rain as Bear and I are walking back from Short North, and we duck into a colossal conference center, where hordes of teenage girls in tiny shorts and ponytails are camped on the floor or whacking volleyballs in the gleaming, blocks- long gym. I think about beach volleyball, where the women have to wear bikinis to compete. There’s something weird about these outfits. Something blatantly sexual that I feel like I’m supposed to not care about because it doesn’t really matter.
I can’t really understand Columbus at a glance. The old and the new are mixed together in complicated ways. Like Florida, but here it’s all about the people and not at all about the land. There’s something charming about the trendy restaurants a street away from the barred off drug houses. There’s something strong about the place, like it might be able to withstand anything. And the people aren’t sure if they want to be in Manhattan or the middle of Ohio. So they’re doing some of both. It seems to be working for them.
Oh, and they have an accent! I didn’t expect that. They have an accent that sounds the slightest bit southern to me. I like it. I want to sound like that, too. I find myself slipping the slightest bit into it, as we talk. I think, maybe if we moved here now, I’d get that accent permanently.
(setting up the baby shower, Bear and I being unhelpful)
Bear’s family is celebrating the pregnancy of one of his cousin’s. We arrived here and stumbled into a baby shower. Everyone is talking about the kids, for our whole visit. Almost everyone in the family thinks about kids late, and decides to have them late, but there are several young kids in the family now, and everyone is talking excitedly about their antics. At first I thought, “Great. We’re talking about little kids again.” But then I got into it, and felt sort of touched by how much they cared about these children.
I never felt that, as a kid– a big ring of protective cousins and aunts and uncles surrounding me. My family is small. Some people haven’t spoken to each other for years. Also, it feels sometimes like my family is full of rules. Rules on how to behave, and what you can say, and how you can act. Grown ups are definitely supposed to act a certain way. No one would ever swear.
Sometimes I realize that I’m not sure what being a grown up looks like for me in my family, because I don’t act like the grown ups there. I am weird and I swear and I do silly voices and I still want to goof around a lot. I bring up inappropriate topics. Innuendo is funny. I love teasing people and I love being teased. My brothers are the same way. So in a way we’re kind of stuck as children. Maybe until we have our own kids and get to be immature around them.
Marriage is awesome. I have this whole new family to learn from. As long as I come out to Ohio every once in a while.
(Bear’s six-year-old cousin took this one of me)
* * *
Un-roast: Today I love my collarbone. It’s understated, I think. I’m not totally positive.
Kate on May 16th 2011 in Uncategorized








Andee responded on 16 May 2011 at 11:00 am #
I am basically living vicariously through you at this point; your traveling adventure makes me so happy and cheerful.
Sari responded on 16 May 2011 at 11:11 am #
You gotta go to Graeter’s for ice cream.
I mean, as long as you’re in Ohio.
That’s all.
Lehit.
🙂
S
CH responded on 16 May 2011 at 2:01 pm #
Ohio is an interesting place — the cities are full of tensions and interest and other contradictory things. I have driven through it so many times, and some of my family lives there as well. I am always shocked by it. It feels like it’s a state that is just full of too many different things. It’s hard to classify.
C responded on 16 May 2011 at 2:24 pm #
Oh, I hope you don’t think Cleveland is all bad! I grew up there and studied at the Cleveland Institute of Music for years and years, and, yes, that neighborhood is not the greatest at night. But! But! there are many wonderful places in Cleveland, I promise–lots of wonderful music and museums and restaurants, although you have to dig a little. And, ironically enough, Cleveland (well, the suburb of Beachwood) is home to the third largest Jewish population in the country, and one of the largest in the world. I hope you’re enjoying your cross-country adventure, it sounds just lovely.
Tom Berger responded on 16 May 2011 at 3:30 pm #
I was born and raised in Newark, Ohio just east of Columbus. Graduated from Marysville High School just west of Columbus. I love Ohio State Football and basketball, but little else about Ohio. I am happy, though, that you have found things there to enjoy. It’s probably more a function of the person you are more than anything else.
Alex responded on 16 May 2011 at 6:09 pm #
I’m from a town an hour east of Columbus, and now I go to school in Massachusetts. I never knew how much I loved Ohio until I left it! I love all the new and different kinds of people I’ve met over here but I’ll always stay grounded in Ohio. It’s just a different kind of life.
If you haven’t, check out The Spaghetti Warehouse! It’s the epitome of old and new mixed together in a falling down old building, and it’s delicious. 🙂
2girlsonabench responded on 16 May 2011 at 6:25 pm #
Have you seen the episode of 30 Rock where Tina Fey goes to Cleveland and everyone thinks she’s a model? Sounds like a nice family, in-laws can be fun, we’ve learned that ourselves as well.
Alana responded on 16 May 2011 at 9:09 pm #
I’m from Cleveland, born and raised! It’s an amazing town if you know where to look, and don’t knock it until you’ve been here!
Alana responded on 16 May 2011 at 9:11 pm #
Oh, and also, I’m Jewish too! Someone already mentioned our Jewish community. It’s the best. I go to school in the same neighborhood your brother goes to, and while it’s pretty sketchy sometimes, it’s a great college area. You should visit us sometime!
Abby responded on 17 May 2011 at 8:38 am #
I think Columbus is the best at food and art right now. I hope you went to the North Market. I think it’s one of those cities that people assume a lot about and then are surprised and confused by what they find here. I’ve been here for 6 years and I love it. There’s a huge unschooling community here, too, which always makes everything better. 🙂
Kate responded on 17 May 2011 at 1:03 pm #
@Abby
Really? I had no idea there was an unschooling community in the area! Interesting. It kind of makes sense, though. Bear’s little cousin attends a Montessori school, which usually means the area tends in that direction.
Kate responded on 17 May 2011 at 1:04 pm #
@Alana
We’ll definitely visit next year. My brother will be performing a senior recital, and if I miss it I’ll never forgive myself.
My parents really like Cleveland. They always have a great time there.
So I’ll have to let you know when I’m coming up!
Abby responded on 17 May 2011 at 4:13 pm #
Yes! All kinds of homeschooling, really. On Thursdays we all meet up at Whetstone for a huge playdate and The HomeSchool Gym. All ages, all day long. We also just started a secular unschoolers co-op, which is taking off beautifully. Come visit us next time. I’m always telling my friends how much I like your writing.
Amanda responded on 17 May 2011 at 7:45 pm #
I moved to Columbus for college. No where has ever felt so much like home. I’m glad you have a different perspective of Ohio. There’s so much to love here.
MarieELizabeth responded on 17 May 2011 at 9:50 pm #
It’s always interesting to me to hear someones take on Columbus. It is a variety of communities, some blending better than others. Ohio in general has a lot of wonderful places, I hope you continue to see more of them. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
Kate responded on 18 May 2011 at 12:49 am #
@Abby
How cool!! I’m excited for you.
Janell responded on 30 May 2011 at 11:51 am #
Jeni’s is the best! I’ve lived in C-bus for a few years and still get ridiculously excited every time I go there. The goat cheese with black cherries is my personal favorite, although the Ohio sweet corn with blackberries and the dark chocolate are close runners-up. Glad you enjoyed the city!